There's a restaurant review in The New York Times today of a restaurant called Xiao Ye which is owned and operated by Eddie Huang.
About 1/3 of the way through the review, I happened upon this quotation by Huang, “I’m interested in the culture of eating. I am not a chef.”
I admit my tastes in food run to the plebeian, but if I go to someplace expensive, I want my food prepared by a chef, not a culinary anthropologist. Huang's statement (and I'll admit I'm in an unusually curmudgeonly mood) strikes me as the apotheosis of pretense.
It is yet another example of the removal of reality from real life. Ads today are about the culture of advertising. They speak to the culture of this sub-group or that. And along the way, they alienate the masses who want a pair of sneakers not to imbibe in sneaker culture.